PHYSICOCHEMICAL PROPERTIES AND ASSESSMENT OF SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION AS AFFECTED BY COCOA FACIAL MASK COSMETIC
Authors: Norliza A. W. and Alyaa Nurathirah A. H.
Journal Issue: Malaysian Cocoa Journal, Volume 14/2022
Keywords: Cocoa facial mask, topical delivery, polyphenols
Published On: 10/05/2022
Abstract
Utilization of cocoa products in the prevention of skin photoageing have been regularly reported. However, specific information concerning cocoa liquor incorporation in a development of facial mask cosmetic with regard to physicochemical stability and skin barrier function upon intervention of the so-called product remained unclear. This study aims to examine the stability of cocoa facial mask (CFM) formulation in different storage conditions as well as its durability in freeze-thaw cycles and the prospect of integrating CFM that offers a skin barrier function by using transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as a tool. CFM formulated from cocoa liquor as a key ingredient showed good physicochemical stability in different temperatures and conditions storage with no significant difference (p>0.05) throughout four weeks assessment both in accelerated stability and freeze-thaw cycles. The attributes, namely aspect, application/touch and odour apparently were not affected by temperature variations whereas its colour, pH and viscosity values remained unaltered. In term of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), emission of water from the skin of volunteers applied with CFM formulation, was significantly lower (p<0.05) than the placebo (24.48 ± 1.84% TEWL changes compared to placebo at only 2.39 ± 0.02%). These results, besides the estimation of physicochemical stability under ageing, can be useful in determining the best storage conditions for an effective skin barrier function of CFM.