EFFECT OF HYDROGEL COSMECEUTICAL CONTAINING UNFERMENTED COCOA BEAN EXTRACT ON UNDER-EYE AREA TREATMENT
Authors: Norliza, A. W.1* and Alyaa Nurathirah, A. H.2
Journal Issue: Malaysian Cocoa Journal, Volume 16/2024
Keywords: Hydrogel cosmeceutical, unfermented cocoa bean extract, under-eye, antioxidant, anti-ageing
Published On: 1/10/2024
Abstract
Besides being traditionally used for making chocolate and cocoa beverages, well fermented Theobroma cacao is highly prized in cosmeceuticals for its plentiful antioxidants and beneficial properties. Nonetheless, unfermented cocoa beans are preferred in cosmeceutical products over fermented ones due to their higher antioxidant content and superior skin benefits. Unfermented beans maintain a higher concentration of polyphenols, flavonoids, and other bioactive compounds that are frequently diminished during fermentation. Despite this, there is limited research on the specific use of unfermented cocoa beans in the under-eye area. Therefore, the primary objective of this research was to evaluate the UCBE's anti-ageing effects and antioxidant capacity. Regarding antioxidant capacity, the UCBE demonstrated significantly greater activity (p<0.05) in 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging compared to the standard ascorbic acid (AA) whereas no significant difference (p>0.05) was observed between UCBE and AA in ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP). In a skin efficacy study involving seven human subjects aged between 30 to 46 years, the application of approximately 500 mg of a 3% (w/v) UCBE formulation over one month resulted in a notable (p<0.05) increase in viscoelasticity parameters (Mpa), ranging from 13% to 87%. The findings suggest that UCBE is a promising active ingredient with antioxidant properties and demonstrated skin efficacy in vivo. This supports the primary objective of developing a cosmeceutical hydrogel enriched with unfermented cocoa bean extract that delivers significant benefits.